Through a Kickstarter campaign called Atlas 3-D scanner (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1545315380/atlas-3d-the-3d-scanner-you-print-and-build-yourse) I have started a project to build my own DIY Open source software 3-D scanner.
Called 'ATLAS 3D - The 3D Scanner You Print and Build Yourself!', the scanner uses a Raspberry Pi as the processing unit with all the plastic components 3-D printed.
The first thing I have completed is to 3-D print all the components for the scanner.
Here are some images:
The blog follows my work with additive manufacture, improving the quality, speed and efficiency of the rapid prototyping technique, and projects where I have applied 3D Printing.
3D Prints Collection
Showing posts with label Prints. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Prints. Show all posts
Tuesday, 10 November 2015
Friday, 6 November 2015
3D Printed Model Jet Engine
I completed this small project ages ago but didn't get round to posting about it. Here is an image of the model of a GE aviation jet engine I made using the designs from thingiverse. I used it as an opportunity to refine the printing quality and practice the print start up procedure.
Saturday, 4 July 2015
Z Axis Stepper Motor Clutch Tool
When starting a new print, it is often required to manually alter the Z axis level to achieve very good adhesion achieved by rotating the clutch on the stepper motor. The clutch is very stiff, and difficult to move as there is little to grip onto. I have additional difficulty due to Arthtitis in my wrists, therefore I decided to produce a tool to make the process easier.
This really demonstrates the power of 3-D printing for rapid prototyping as the design and manufacture of the tool was completed in around one and a half hours. I quickly designed the shape using Google Sketchup software, generated the tool paths using Cura software and printed it using PLA material.
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| Using the Tool to rotate the Z Axis clutch |
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| I included a X shaped centre to reduce the quantity of material required and the print duration. |
Saturday, 1 November 2014
Lancia Statos
Just for fun and to experiment with new materials I have decided to make a model Lancia Stratos Rally Car using the designs published by Makerbot.
I would like to use ABS for the main body, and this will be a challenge as it is a difficult material to print. ABS doesn't adhere at all to Blue tape, like I have used successfully with PLA, or the glass bed and is generally just hard work to print with. So much so that it is becoming increasingly unpopular in the 3D Printing world, with most manufactures saying their printers are "not optimised for ABS" (i.e. the prints lift off the bed). Comparing the cost of PLA and ABS material on eBay, for example, also shows which one is more popular. Although it has been a race to the bottom with both plastics, with the prices rapidly dropping with the expansion of the industry; the price of PLA has plateaued, whilst ABS continues to drop, and at present is about £10 cheaper then PLA.
For the few die hard 3D Printers who fight with ABS, the method seems to use a heated bed at a scorching 100-110°C. Although, I have seen the use of water soluble glues, Cubify use this method with their printers. However, getting a consistent adhesion isn't easy, and the base of the prints have a less then desirable finish/texture. I have a few ideas of my own to improve ABS printing, and will post about them later.
First components for the Stratos
I would like to use ABS for the main body, and this will be a challenge as it is a difficult material to print. ABS doesn't adhere at all to Blue tape, like I have used successfully with PLA, or the glass bed and is generally just hard work to print with. So much so that it is becoming increasingly unpopular in the 3D Printing world, with most manufactures saying their printers are "not optimised for ABS" (i.e. the prints lift off the bed). Comparing the cost of PLA and ABS material on eBay, for example, also shows which one is more popular. Although it has been a race to the bottom with both plastics, with the prices rapidly dropping with the expansion of the industry; the price of PLA has plateaued, whilst ABS continues to drop, and at present is about £10 cheaper then PLA.
For the few die hard 3D Printers who fight with ABS, the method seems to use a heated bed at a scorching 100-110°C. Although, I have seen the use of water soluble glues, Cubify use this method with their printers. However, getting a consistent adhesion isn't easy, and the base of the prints have a less then desirable finish/texture. I have a few ideas of my own to improve ABS printing, and will post about them later.
Monday, 27 October 2014
Biro-pipette
I am in the process of manufacturing a fully functional, accurate, pipette which uses the mechanism from a biro pen. I have been working with Open Source designs created by Tom Baden, Centre for Integrative Neuroscience (CIN) University of Tübingen, Germany, which are part of a "Free and Open Source Software and Hardware (FOSS/FOSH) for capacity building in education and research" project.
The most difficult component so far has been the main body of the pipette where the adhesion with the bed has failed and print fell over.
I solved this issue by increasing the print temperature, to then instantly fall foul to another problem. My G-code (the CNC commands) generator software (Cura) was offsetting some of the layers, ruining the print. I have been to date unable to fix this software issue, but got around the problem by printing the design on its side. Although this required support structures, and I am not happy with the print quality, It was successful and with a little machining up the component will function perfectly.
The most difficult component so far has been the main body of the pipette where the adhesion with the bed has failed and print fell over.
Three failed prints (LH) and the success (Far RH Horizontal))
I solved this issue by increasing the print temperature, to then instantly fall foul to another problem. My G-code (the CNC commands) generator software (Cura) was offsetting some of the layers, ruining the print. I have been to date unable to fix this software issue, but got around the problem by printing the design on its side. Although this required support structures, and I am not happy with the print quality, It was successful and with a little machining up the component will function perfectly.
Sunday, 26 October 2014
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